Jewellery & Watch show review: Belinda Morris reports from the front line
12 Feb 2020
The Jeweller editor Belinda Morris reports from the front line at Jewellery & Watch.
There was no question that Jewellery & Watch (2nd-6th February, NEC) was going to be a rather different show this time around. Occupying aisles A to F at the further reaches of the Fashion hall, it did have a compact, tucked-away feel about it. And yet… and yet… it worked. Or at least it certainly worked for a number of exhibitors that I spoke to.
Preparing themselves for ‘lacklustre’ and ‘quiet’, many were cheerfully surprised at a) the number and b) the quality of visitors. “The show was pleasantly good,” says Midhaven’s Bill Smethurst. We had a very busy Sunday, Monday and Tuesday. I think the move back to Hall 1, and being near the Gift Hall, helped a lot of us get new business.” The company took the opportunity to introduce a new men’s jewellery brand – H2on. The Italian designed and made collection offers highly detailed wristwear in leather with stainless steel details and some fittings (like screws and rivets) in 18ct gold). “The move to Hall 1 was positive and encouraged an upbeat atmosphere – a welcome change from recent years,” added director Alison Hargreaves.
Image (L to R): Tianguis Jackson, Ziymet and Bamboo Vera
“I’m so glad we’re here,” said Judith Lockwood of Ti Sento after Day Three. “It’s generally been very busy and we’ve seen new people and existing customers; a great group of independent jewellers, multiples and department stores and we’ve opened accounts. She reports interest across the three themes: “Our retailers still love our 18ct rose-gold plated pieces and love the new long tonneau and star chain and matching bracelet. They were drawn to our combinations of nude and grey/green pieces added to this tower display – part of our “Garden Secrets Collection”, she explains.
“The show was a great success for us, with new buyers from every corner of the UK and several new European customers too,” adds Stephen Meller of Battle-based Christin Ranger. “All of these products were very good sellers, but the satin finished geometric and floral collections did particularly well.” Smadar Elka of SL Design was also very happy with J&W: “The show was very good for us, we were busy till the last minute, I returned home exhausted!” She showcased two different hand-made collections: Frank Herval, a fashion line from France offering great colours and a ethnic/bohemian slant and the slightly edgier Israeli Dganit Hen – organic co-ordinating looks in oxidised silver and gold-fill with mixtures of colours and textures.
First time exhibitors and emerging brands found that their presence at the show was useful for visibility, growth and signed orders. Naomi Stacey, owner and jewellery designer at Bamboo Vera, says: “On day one of the show we had our first order placed before 9:40am which was incredible! We also had our first international order and many more to make the whole show a thoroughly enjoyable experience. Our range is still quite small so everything did well, but I got lots of fabulous feedback about our use of colour and hand-painted enamel, especially on The Love Birds collection. Buyers loved the two different colours, and the painted-on colour – a ‘wash’ that allows the gold to shine through. I was really pleased they appreciated this fresh approach.”
Image: Christin Ranger (Top left), Ti Sento (Bottom left) and Dganit Hen at DL Design (right).
Sarah Bussey, MD of wedding boutique supplier Ivory & Co, launched luxury fashion jewellery brand Sarah Alexander. The large stand, open on four sides and with stylish display materials, drew plenty of visitor interest. “We couldn’t have hoped for a better show,” says Bussey. “The reaction to our designs was outstanding and feedback was that our modern, designer styles and use of rarer gemstones was exactly what they were looking for. We took on many new stockists and met stores from small boutiques to large corporations.” Favourites ordered from across the six collections were: pendant and earrings in flat cut malachite; earrings and matching necklace in tourmaline turquoise (with veins of copper shot through); earrings and matching necklace featuring rough cut labradorite and citrines, and statement pendant and earrings with blue iolite, rough cut moonstones and labradorite.
Guardian Brands, distributor of Angel Whisperer by Engelsrufer in the UK and Ireland, also had a positive J&W debut. Guardian Brands founder, Stewart Arvan, says: “This was our first trade show in the UK since taking over the distribution of Angel Whisperer, and the results exceeded our expectations. We opened several new accounts at the show and attracted a large number of potential customers we would not normally have targeted, which has paved the way for new avenues of business. Speaking to other exhibitors the move to Hall 1 was given the thumbs up.”
Shane Whitfield of Tianguis Jackson was pleased to see a number of mid- to high-end jewellers at the show, with the mixed metal pieces in the Mexican-made silver brand receiving particular interest. The company also took the opportunity of the show to reveal its new POS material including branded display stands. Meanwhile Unique & Co continued to see growing interest in its men’s collections – while wrist wear is always strong, rings are a large and developing category for the brand, many being sold as less expensive wedding band options.
The show attracted a number of brands from Turkey – including Istanbul-based Zynet, which caught my eye with its big, bold and different neckwear, cuffs and rings in beaten metal. “For us, actually the show was busy and we feel very happy with the result,” says Fatih Yar. “We had so many good contacts and some nice orders. And now, we just need to work hard! Strong looks were also popular at Yulan Jewellery – in particular the hammered silver ‘Monet’ earrings, coloured aluminium cuffs and wrap-around bangles.
Image (L to R): Sarah Alexander, Yulan Jewellery and Frank Herval at DL Design
The show’s event director, Kirsty Broere is upbeat: “This year's Jewellery & Watch was a fantastic success. Our exhibitors report strong order numbers, useful leads, good footfall and a positive atmosphere,” she reports. “We’ve also been encouraged by reports that exhibitors established new business relationships with buyers in different sectors, such as fashion, giftware and museums. This highlights the success of combining Jewellery & Watch and Fashion in Hall 1. Cross-buying is no longer a trend, but a reality for retailers who are trying to keep their customers engaged with their product lines. I’m excited to present our new-look Jewellery & Watch and Fashion at Autumn Fair 2020, followed by Spring Fair 2021. This is a new era for our long-running show and a true reflection of the direction the market is taking. I would like to personally thank all those who exhibited and all those who visited Jewellery & Watch and made it such a success."
Summing up the show for the NAJ, Chief Executive Simon Forrester adds: “Jewellery & Watch was great for us as the jewellery trade association. We received a significant number of new member applications and interest in Created in the UK was high. What was also positive was the support from both attendees and fellow exhibitors for the NAJ Summit this June.
“We welcome organisers Hyve renaming the show going forward – ‘Jewellery, Watch and Fashion’ is much more fitting to exhibitors and attendees entering Hall One. As a membership organisation we have to maintain relevance and by listening to those that came to meet us on the stand we’re excited about what future iterations of the Spring and Autumn fairs will do for the Association.”
Source: The Jeweller