MAN ON THE MOVE - In March, Hong Kong to Birmingham, Munich to Istanbul and Gdansk - booming shows and culture shocks

28 Mar 2023

By David Brough

March has seen an extraordinary variety of jewellery trade shows across the globe with some of them making a long-awaited comeback after the pandemic.

Foremost of these was the March Hong Kong show, early in the month, which returned after more than three years, signalling that China was back in a big way as a supplier, with exports from Hong Kong surging again.

The Hong Kong show, organised by the Hong Kong Trade Development Council (HKTDC), was characterised by huge crowds from the outset on March 1, coinciding with the end of the masks mandate.

The trade were delighted to be able to network again, exchange stories and catch up with market news and gossip, as for example at a vibrant cocktail party on a huge terrace overlooking Victoria Harbour as the sun came down.

It was a sharp cultural contrast to get off a plane from the other side of the world in Hong Kong, and then take a train to join the Company of Master Jewellers (CMJ) Trade Event in Birmingham, which also saw a buoyant attendance and a strong flow of orders.

Next stop was INHORGENTA Munich, one of the largest trade shows in Europe, which reported a sharp rise in visitors and an upbeat mood, as mainly European suppliers showed off their latest jewellery designs, watches models and accessories. I was dining on sausages and sauerkraut in the evenings instead of dim sum.

I noticed only a limited number of UK jewellery exporters at the Asian and European shows, reflecting the complications of doing business post-Brexit due to increased red tape and the need in some cases to find a local partner to facilitate trade.

The Istanbul Jewelry Show in mid-March reported a jump in visitors despite the recent earthquake in Turkey and Syria, and the timing of the show just a few days before the start of Ramadan.

A talking point in Istanbul was the surging gold price which made it tougher for Turkish gold jewellery exporters to sell at affordable prices.

There was chatter that some manufacturers may reduce the caratage of their gold jewellery production.

Turkish exporters are also facing increased competition from Chinese suppliers of gold jewellery since the return of the Hong Kong shows.

The June and September 2023 Hong Kong fairs are expected to make a comeback later this year, after a long hiatus due to the pandemic.

My final stop this month was a visit for the first time to AMBERIF, the twice-yearly amber jewellery trade event staged in the Polish seaport of Gdańsk.

AMBERIF presents centuries-old craftsmanship in Baltic amber. The rarest opaque yellow and white forms of natural unheated Baltic amber are much sought-after by collectors in China and the Gulf Middle East.

The AMBERIF show is now looking to expand its offering at future editions to non-amber jewellery, such as gold and silver jewellery, and loose diamonds and gemstones, a potential opportunity for UK-based suppliers.

Source: David Brough (Jewellery Outlook)