Why brooches should be part of your assortment
22 Jun 2021
With brooches growing in popularity at auction and on the red carpet, could we be seeing a resurgence it what was once thought of as an ‘old fashioned’ jewel?
Here, we speak with Rachel Church, a curator at the Victoria & Albert Museum and a guest speaker at this year’s Valuers’ Conference, hosted by the Institute of Registered Valuers at the NAJ Summit 2021 from the 11th-13th September, to get her opinion.
Do you think we are witnessing a contemporary resurgence of brooches?
Brooches are certainly enjoying a moment in the sun - jewellery fairs such as Goldsmiths Fair in London or JOYA in Barcelona include fantastic contemporary brooches in the most varied materials. In the last few years articles on the resurgence of brooches have appeared with some frequency - there is even a hashtag #BringBackTheBrooch. Men have also been wearing brooches at red carpet events like the Academy Awards or the Golden Globes. I think that brooches appeal because they can be made in such a range of sizes, styles and materials, from a very discreet pin to a big statement piece. They are probably still more associated with women, but they have been appearing on some stylish male lapels and they can be used to dress up an outfit or in a very fun, casual way.
If you had to summarise the importance and significance of brooches in jewellery history, what would you say?
Brooches start off as dress fasteners - prior to the use of buttons in Europe around 1400, pins, belts and laces were the only way to keep your clothes on your body. However, being such a visible part of dress, they were decorative from the start. They have ornamental designs, they can include romantic mottoes or religious inscriptions, they can be made of any material, precious or otherwise. The early twentieth century has some wonderful brooches - Art Nouveau designs often use gorgeous enamels, and cabochon gems or unexpected materials such as polished horn. The brooches of the Art Deco designers can be wonderfully geometric and ingenious-all sorts of clips and transformations are possible. But they can also be very playful and whimsical.
Why did brooches disappear and why do you think now is prime time for them to come back into fashion?
Brooches do seem to be having a comeback - they fell out of fashion in part due to the rise of very casual clothing in the 1960s and 70s. I think they picked up a bit of an association with twin-sets and conventionality, however unfairly! But, interest in mid-century design, the popularity of 'vintage' clothes and furniture have helped to bring them back into fashion. There is also a really interesting trend of men wearing brooches, for example on the catwalk or the red carpet. Brooches can add a bit of an edge to an outfit without feeling too extreme.
What advice would you give to consumers and/or retailers looking for antique or vintage pieces for themselves?
If I were looking out for a jewel, my first rule of thumb would be to choose something I loved. A well-made jewel without major damage and with an original working pin would be worth having. It's worth bearing in mind that some brooches have been adapted from other jewels - they may still be lovely to wear but it may affect their value.
You have written about brooches and been published on the subject - what is it about brooches that appeals to you as a jewellery historian and curator?
I choose brooches in part because there didn't seem to be much written about them specifically. And I then fell in love with their variety, with the way they intersect with dress in unexpected and interesting ways and with their use to send a message about politics, hobbies and interests - brooches can be quite daring and controversial. Brooches are wearable works of art - they can have flat surfaces, like a picture, or be very sculptural. They can be tiny and perfect or big and bold. Anyone can wear them and look fantastic, and a lot of jewellers have really enjoyed their creative potential.
What are you looking forward to about the Valuers' Conference in September?
This will be my first time attending the Valuers ' Conference but I've heard great things about it. I'm looking forward to meeting people and talking about jewellery in a wider context than my familiar museum one. The trade has been amazingly adaptable during Covid with online talks, virtual viewings and a greater willingness by customers to buy online, but meetings in person and casual conversations can be so valuable in sparking ideas or future projects. The Conference also gives attendees the chance to see such a range of demonstrations and masterclasses - almost too much to fit into a weekend!
What can we expect from your Masterclass?
One of the things I love about jewellery is that it's such a personal art. Every jewel has a story, either connected to the maker or the wearer or the collector. I'm going to talk about some of the meanings associated with brooches, the stories behind them and how this can give an extra layer of value (either financial or emotional) to the buyer.
Guests at the Valuers' Conference Dinner on the evening of Saturday 11th September will be wearing brooches - do you have any idea of the piece you will wear?
I love the idea of a room full of brooch wearers - they're such great conversation starters. As the 1961 advert for a diamond fly brooch explained “it's an uncanny way to start - and sometimes stop – conversation”. I'm thinking hard about what brooch to wear - maybe the great brooch by the Canadian jeweller Charlize Nhung that I bought at the JOYA fair in Barcelona. It looks light and dainty, but it's made of concrete! Or perhaps a fun piece of costume jewellery.
The NAJ Summit 2021, which includes the Valuers’ Conference and the Retail Jewellers’ Congress (hosted by the NAJ JET Business Network (JBN)) will take place at the De Vere Staverton Estate in Northampton from September 11-13.
Download the NAJ Summit Brochure here
Source: The National Association of Jewellers